PitStop Extruder

PitStop STL files

PitStop v1.2 STL(old) PitStop v1.1 STL(old) PitStop v1 STL

Files licensed under CC BY-NC-SA.

There’s also a magnetic quick swap hotend connector for those adventurous enough. You’ll need the Pogo Connectors and magnets, 8x5mm I believe, a few M3 screws and zip ties. You need a soldering station and basic soldering skills. Pass the 4 wires through the annoying round hole so that they spread one for each of the 4 exits. I position the thick power wires on the outside and the thermistor wires in the middle. It won’t be easy. Warning: causing a short between wires can destroy the board. A few people asked for these, so here you go:

STL for Pogo Connectors

V1.2 changes

MMU2S version of the body without the cutout for the steel ball where you can insert the PTFE tube closer to the gears. The filament would sometimes get stuck in the cutout, so I removed it in this alternative part.

Straighter filament path over stock extruder.

Experimental idler door to potentially avoid extrusion issues.

Support for E3D motors with longer shaft.

Stronger PINDA holder to reduce sagging.

PINDA and blower fan extensions for SuperVolcano hotend. Z calibration will not work anymore as you lose about 40mm of Z build volume (recompiling the firmware with the new Z height fixes the calibration issues).

New optional fan grill spacer to reduce noise caused by air turbulence.

Nyloc nut for idler door to prevent/reduce loosening.

Very slight adjustments to the back plate for bearings. A general note on this part (applicable to all versions): it’s super important that it come out straight, no warping, otherwise the bearings won’t be parallel to each other, causing more wear and printing problems.

This is not a comprehensive list as I lost track of all the changes.

V1.1 changes

Stock frame support.

MK2.5S support.

Better PINDA holder.

MMU2S improvements.

Dragon hotend support.

New folder structure.

Various small tweaks.

Dragon hotend note

For Dragon hotend, print either the tighter or the larger parts. The larger one is more likely to fit. Use the FIT TEST files to see if the larger parts should be used. If not a perfect fit, use the tighter parts. Heat up the radiator and press it in between the parts if it doesn’t fit.


If you have an enclosure, print the extruder parts in ASA or ABS if you can print them reliably (especially the carriage part). I turn on the fan to 15-20%, just enough to provide slight cooling and improve the surface finish at the expense of a little strength. Don't inhale fumes!

Otherwise, I recommend PETG (same as stock extruder), but the shroud can melt. If ASA/ABS parts come out crocked/warped/cracked, print them in PETG. Dimensional accuracy is top priority.


I recommend 3-4 perimeters and 20-30% infill for stiffer parts, standard 0.2mm layer height, no supports (they are built-in). Smaller parts can be printed at 0.1mm. Do not change the face pointing down for parts. You can add 3mm brim to some parts if they warp or peel off during printing. Printer should be reasonably calibrated to avoid crooked prints.

Print the fan grill in 2 colors for a better look.


Are grouped based on configuration.

Motor plate comes with supports. If you’re having issues with them, find the version without supports under the "All parts” folder.

Ready to assemble the extruder?

Start assembling!