A fully 3D printed dry box for filament spools.
Please note that this project requires a lot of material and effort to assemble, and moisture can leak in over time if there are pores in the print.Downlad STL from Thangs.com
Assembled fully 3D printed filament dry box
Silica gel containers for moisture absorption
Hygrometer for humidity monitoring
Rewind system and airtight gateway with locking mechanism
Cool looks compared to dry boxes made out of cereal boxes or other containers.
Keeps filament dry for a while. Contrary to popular opinion, most filaments can take advantage of being dry. Fillamentum strongly recommends drying even for PLA.
Dry filament prints smoother, with less stringing, better layer adhesion and mechanical strength.
Rewind and lock mechanism to avoid opening the box or losing filament when swapping colors at the printer.
Works as a storage unit for when filament is not in use.
Integrated hygrometer helps deciding when to replace/recharge desiccant.
MMU2S support for most filaments: Filament valve was completely redesigned with a pneumatic fitting. I haven’t tested this with an MMU2S unit.
Model is free for personal use. Print the dry box with no license fees.
Make sure to check the shortcomings section below.
Made for 1Kg, ~200mm diameter spools of all widths (that I could find).
Options for 3 window layouts or no windows.
Lid with or without hygrometer (to check humidity).
List includes affiliate links (I take a small commission at no additional cost to you). There’s a chance for the list to change. Let me know if I should add links to other Amazon stores.BOM list
The largest piece is 220mm in length and 205mm tall. An Ender or a MK3S will work, but a mini printer such as the Prusa Mini cannot print this model.
I printed the box in the photos in Fiberlogy’s Vertigo PLA/PETG and you’ll have to find a reseller. In the US Narrow Path 3D is stocking the Vertigo filament. Similar to Fillamentum’s PLA/ASA Vertigo Grey. I’m also testing more cost effective filaments, like the ones from GTST3D Europe / GST3D US - very inexpensive, but thei filament diameter can sometimes vary wildly in my measurements (sometimes close to 1.6mm diameter) and is only PLA, although I was able to print several boxes with no issues with their PLA. Just make sure it doesn’t heat up past 45 Celsius as PLA can deform. Box in the last video is printed in their PLA.
I suggest not using your best filament for the first print which you might have to scrap if the print settings aren’t working well for you.
For faster printing (~15 hours) I use a 0.6mm nozzle on a Volcano hotend with direct drive extruder. For a normal hotend and nozzle expect over 50 hours of printing.
Choose one lid and one base. The bases with large windows takes ~100g less material than the box with no windows. For me the box takes about 750g of filament and this can go up a lot depending on window choices, slicing settings and material.
Some versions of the box require transparent window panels. You can cut clear plastic sheets, clear PETG sheets, acrylic sheets etc. There are 2 shapes. There’s an option for using only the rectangular shape to save cutting and assemblying time.Download laser cutting DXF files
Assembly video and more photos are planned for the future. Until then you can use these instructions and use the YouTube playlist for reference as needed.
Most screws have no nuts and they tighten into the print. Do not overtighten any of them as this will destroy the printed parts.
It requires a well calibrated printer. Skewed parts may not fit and low print quality can leave small holes through which humidity will creep in, or lid may not close properly, even if using mesh bed leveling on a skewed printer.
It’s not easy to source and assemble.
It’s not cheap. Takes a lot of parts, material, and time to assemble.
Not perfectly sealed. In my initial test I had to replace my silica gel after a month. Filament tends to be a bit porous, so it won’t perfectly seal the box. Day/night temperature variation will force a bit of air in and out no matter what. In my preliminary test humidity reached 20% after one month. For highly hygroscopic materials you should use a different box.
It can be a bit noisy when printing very fast or rewinding.
It’s likely that cardboard spools won’t work well.
No active heating, although I doubt any commercial heated dry boxes achieve any useful heating level for drying, and they don’t offer any sealing. I dry my filament separately in a dehydrator. A lot of filaments come moist from the factory despite the included silica pack, in which case you have to dry it in a dehydrator or other device. A dry box will not dry your filament.
The strong magnets + printed parts tolerances can cause a bit of friction for the filament being pulled. This is amplified when the spool is not perfectly round and has uneven points on the outside rolling surface. One solution is to use smaller, weaker magnets (not recommended for MMU2S use as there’s higher risk of windings escaping the rollers and causing a jam).
PTFE tubes used in a reverse Bowden setup (recommended) tend to amplify whatever friction there is inside the box (from the point above). I’m using 3mm ID tubes which reduce this issue to some extent.
To further customize the box using your favorite CAD software, download the STEP files below. Feel free to share your mods with the world.DryBox STEP files